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Writer's pictureChristine Childress

Off-The-Beaten-Path in Paris: Musée de la Vie Romantique

Updated: Oct 27, 2023




Cabinets stuffed with curios, ridiculously good oil paintings, and rooms adorned with heavy drapery in a perfectly preserved historic house transport visitors to the Romantic era. Oh, and there’s a secret garden.


For those who: Appreciate 19th century artistic salons, literature, and figures of French Romanticism like George Sand.


Why you should go: The museum’s garden is quite possibly the most beautiful (and relatively unknown) spot in the city.


Located in painter Ary Scheffer's historic home in the 9th arrondissement, the Musée de la Vie Romantique offers an intimate glimpse into the world of Romantic creatives in early 19th-century first-floor Paris. Visitors can explore Scheffer's perfectly preserved atelier, salons decorated with elaborate draperies, and cabinets stuffed with artistic curiosities. Many of Scheffer's most famous Romantic oil paintings, like portraits of literary figures, are on display.


The entire first floor is dedicated to French novelist Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin, more commonly known by her pen name, George Sand. In a time of strict norms for women, Sand bucked tradition by donning men's clothing and becoming an acclaimed writer. By the age of 27, she was the most famous and respected literary elite in Europe, known for works like Indiana and Lélia. The museum contains many artifacts from Sand's life.


The true highlight is the museum's secret garden, accessible from the first floor exhibit area. The leafy oasis provides a tranquil respite from the city. It contains two structures from Scheffer’s original garden – an orangery and a charming greenhouse. The greenhouse now houses the Rose Bakery, serving up tea, coffee, light fare, and desserts. It's the perfect stop after exploring the exhibits.



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